Copywriting for MM6 Maison Margiela

MM6 MAISON MARGIELA / AVANT PREMIÈRE SS24

A carefully positioned dart softens a sleeve into a rounded port de bras, a minimalist white safety pin hovers between the opening of a jacket like a dancer taking flight, delicate seam work encircles the torso — AVP SS24 develops and articulates the subtle details and gestures that have the power to transform a garment; to take it from rehearsal to flawless performance, so to speak.

Even couture techniques — the epitome of perfection — contribute to this notion of a work in progress when applied to humble fabrics, forging garments with a gentle and approachable yet refined aesthetic. Necklines of dresses, T-shirts, tops, coats and tailored jackets in cotton poplin, twill, jersey or wool are ruched to create volume around the shoulders that cascades down the body — a silhouette reminiscent of those achieved by early 20th-century maisons. A prom dress with asymmetric ruffles is cut from silver Tyvek, a double nod to industrial workwear and the idiosyncratic interiors of Pop artists’ studios.

In order to let creative ideas and subtle details sing, flamboyant materials have been eschewed. Capacious trousers, hoodies and sweatshirts in brushed jersey, along with wide-leg denim jeans, bring a sense of ease to the collection. Familiar garments are injected with a fresh attitude: jacquard knits, for instance, are patchworked into roll-neck vest tops; lapels are stripped from blazers, leaving the edges raw; and tailoring and denim jackets are slashed at the waist. Padded gilet linings lend added sharpness to the tailoring, so that garments hover off the body with an almost surreal effect. A soft-edged polka dot print re-emerges from the archive across flowing dresses, a glowing spotlight in contrasting blue, turquoise and neon green hues. A digital print of two zips — like those that spiral down the legs of a pair of baggy jeans — imparts wit to a classic T-shirt, transposing utilitarianism into embellishment.

The ongoing creative dialogue between MM6 and the French sportswear manufacturer Salomon — whose designs are as ubiquitous on the streets of Paris as they are on hiking trails — continues for a fourth season. The XT-4 all-terrain shoes, which meld style and function with a single-pull lacing system and exaggerated lugs, are reimagined as an open-back mule. Another key footwear style is the canvas boot — a facsimile of a German army silhouette that has been demilitarised and tempered with highlighted contours to create a distinctly original design.

Never-before-seen accessories with archival accents are introduced alongside MM6 archetypes. The numeric plate signature is revived as a metal closure or embossing on bags and small leather goods, as well as a print across ready-to-wear — an antidote to label- and logo-driven meme and TikTok culture. The Numeric shoulder bag makes its debut in large and mini sizes, in addition to the medium unveiled last season. Its triangular shape and flap closure — punctuated by the metal numeric plate — draw on the beloved Japanese bag, reimagined with sharp lines and precise seam work for a minimal silhouette, and realised in black, sage or lime green leather.

The AVP SS24 lookbook offers a series of dynamic, malleable propositions for the client. Shooting and styling happen simultaneously, creating images that are deliberately open-ended. Looks are composed on a single model with a subtle attitude, laying bare the transformative power of clothing. Garments and accessories are combined in unexpected ways — Salomon x MM6 mules with tailoring and dresses, a gathered ankle-length dress over wide-leg trousers — while flashes of turquoise and silver radiate from an otherwise monochromatic palette. Every piece is genderless; MM6 is designed to emphasise the personality of the wearer, not overpower it. These garments leave space for self-expression — an invitation to partake in the artistic process, a work in progress.